Well, Rifle was terrific.
Check your ego at the door and prepare to be humbled. That's the approach that works best. If you send - woohoo. If you fail - good training! :)
Highlights of my two week trip are as follows (I've gone with the euro grades as, after all, this is sport climbing):
Spray-A-Thon 8a+ - 5th shot (super steep with one tough crux. My first grade 30 on foreign soil.)
The Anti-Phil 8a - 4th shot (gently overhanging with brutal campus-snatching around a low roof)
The Beast 7c+ - 4th shot (slipperiest rock on the planet?)
Pump-O-Rama 7c+ - 2nd shot (just like Mt Coolum in Australia. Technical kneebars not an issue :)
Beer Run 7c+ - 3rd shot (my fave in Rifle, varied and amazing)
The Blocky Horror Show 7c - 3rd shot (stepped roofs, then hugging headwall)
Hang Em High 7b+ - onsight ("proud onsight dude!" pumped off my dial)
Pretty Hate Machine 7b+ - 2nd shot (slippery steep route)
Easy Skankin 7b - onsight (best sport 12b in USA they reckon!)
And here's some pics of me doing
Spray-A-Thon on my final day. Big pressure!
Getting set up for the dyno. Off the right hand undercling, you jump for that hole. Very cool move.
Clipping in the crack section.
Double kneebars (sort-of) before the first bulge. I figured out some great beta for this bulge that even the locals now use. Energy conservation is all about using momentum!
The crux move! Might not look much, but you're reaching left hand for a hold known as the "pencil". But I reckon a pencil would be a better edge.
So thanks Rifle, you were great. I love you.
All pics © Jason Huston 2010
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Alange,spain.Not the biggest crag in the world but worth a look if you are in the area.
The views are great,the rock is fantastic,there are 130 routes and all are bolted.
Accom,There are hotels that are walking distance and at 20e pp, well worth it.
We where there in october but in the summer months how inviteing is that lake.
Sun set on a great days climbing in Alange,Spain
Mike B on a zig zagging 5.11 crack. This one is found in the Grand Wash and is about a 2 minute approach. Classic.
Steph Davis on a nice 12+ splitter. This crack is also in the Grand Wash and is as good as they get for this size. Steph crushed the route easily after her knee surgery months ago.
The Capitol Reef visitor center. Be sure to stop in and get some fresh pies!
Mike B making breakfast on a cool morning in the park. For 10 bucks a night it's quiet and you are right in the middle of everything in the park. Clean bathrooms and friendly folks and hundreds of fruit trees.
Mike B on his overhanging 35meter hand crack. It's awesome! Some easy face/crack climbing at the beginning leads to a beautiful 20 foot overhung handcrack out the dihedral. It is just a minute from the road (Grand Wash).
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